Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
